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PEPLUM JACKET & NIKKO DRESS
If you’ve been visiting the blog for a while, you already know how much I LOVE sewing with knit fabrics. I will take almost any pattern that’s designed for woven fabrics and choose a knit instead. This knit ensemble started out as a 2-Piece outfit, the Peplum Jacket & Nikko Dress. But I couldn’t resist adding a third piece with the leftover fabric. Grab yourself a cup of coffee or tea and get comfortable because this is a long blog post, filled with lots of details and photos. This post is sponsored by Baby Lock.
Pattern Information
I’ll be covering two different patterns in this post, the Peplum Jacket and Nikko Dress. The third pattern, the Pencil Skirt, will be a “mention only” in the styling section at the end of the post. Let’s get started.
McCall's 7513 Peplum Jacket
McCall’s 7513 Peplum Jacket is a semi-fitted, lined jacket. It has a notched collar, back princess seams, with length and peplum options. Views A and B have pleated back peplums. Views C and D have high-low hems on the peplums.
The pattern is available in both Print and PDF options HERE. The size range is 6 – 22. The company rates the pattern as AVERAGE, which means an INTERMEDIATE sewing skill, and I agree with this rating. I found the pattern instructions to be well written, although I didn’t follow the sewing order as listed. I have my own sewing process, but I did refer to the instructions for most of the steps.
Nikko Dress by True Bias
Nikko by True Bias has officially become my favorite mock turtleneck pattern. I’ve sewn two and I already know that there will be many more in the future.
The Nikko is a mock turtleneck that can be sewn as a top or dress. There are four different views to choose from to create your look. Views A and B are fitted tops. Views C and D are ankle-length dresses that are fitted through the waist and hip. The dresses have knee-length slits on both sides. Views A and C are sleeveless with a racerback style. Views B and D have long, fitted sleeves.
This pattern is available in both Print & PDF, ranging in size from 0 – 30. Finished Garment Measurements between the top and dress are (Bust: 28.5″ – 54″ | Hip: 30.5″ – 59″). This is a beginner-friendly project. If you have basic sewing skills, you should be able to complete the dress following the simple pattern instructions. Also there is a written sew along series on the True Bias website, START HERE.
Baby Lock Sewing Machines I used on this project
If you are a beginner, I’m here to tell you that you can create beautiful garments with basic, entry level sewing machines. All three garments in this post were sewn with machines from the Baby Lock Genuine Collection, which is a line of sewing machines for beginners. As a Baby Lock Ambassador, I own five amazing sewing machines that have served me well since 2017. I started with the Soprano Sewing Machine and Evolution Serger (out-of-production). Later we added the Vibrant Serger and Zeal Sewing Machine. Finally, the Euphoria Coverstitch came into the studio and sewing life has never been the same. Here I am, in the photo below, with all my Baby Lock Sewing Machines in July of 2022, on my 5 Year Anniversary as an Ambassador (Evolution Serger not pictured). Let’s take a look at the two machines I used for these garments.
Baby Lock Zeal Sewing Machine
Baby Lock Zeal is an entry level sewing machine that packs a lot of power. The Zeal is a mechanical machine, meaning it doesn’t have a computer inside driving its functions. The settings are chosen by manipulating dials, knobs, and buttons that are strategically placed on the machine. The Zeal is simpler to operate for a beginner and I like teaching with this machine in my Online Sewing Course because it demonstrates just how much you can do with a basic machine.
Sewing the Peplum Jacket & Nikko Dress on the Zeal was just as easy as it would have been on any other sewing machine. The seams are clean and the machine is able to handle bulky areas, crossing over multiple layers of seam allowances. If all I had was the Zeal Sewing Machine, you would still see the well-sewn, fabulous garments that I sew each week. It’s all about pairing skill with the right tool. Skill comes with lot’s of practice. A quality beginner sewing machine is the tool that will help you to execute and improve your skills. I sewed with mechanical sewing machines for years before I received my first Baby Lock. The quality was the difference that I noticed.
The Baby Lock Zeal sewed through the thick vinyl and sweater knit with no problem while making this belt pictured below. I used a Size 16 Universal Needle, or you can use a Leather Needle. In the second photo, you can see the thickness of the layers.
Baby Lock Vibrant Serger
If you’re new to the world of serging, I highly recommend looking into the Baby Lock Vibrant Serger. I’m an ADVANCED level sewist, and I use the Vibrant beginner serger with all my projects where serging is involved. It is a powerhouse and I’ve been using it for six years with much satisfaction. Before receiving my Vibrant, I used my serger to finish off seam allowances only. Since adding Vibrant to my studio, I have sewn multiple garments with this serger and obtained beautiful results. If you’d like more information about this awesome specialty sewing machine, check out my YouTube Video Series where I show you all the details about Vibrant. I even walk you through the entire process of sewing a t-shirt on the Vibrant Serger, including the hems.
Inside the Garments
I love the construction details of this jacket that produce a polished look on the inside. If you would rather have a fully lined garment, you can use the peplum pattern piece to add a lining. Because the backside of my fabric was nice, I was okay not having the peplum lined. I sewed both garments on my Baby Lock Zeal Sewing Machine, and finished exposed seam allowances with the Baby Lock Vibrant Serger. So, let’s take a peak inside the jacket and dress.
Fabric Options
Knits! Knits! Knits! Give me all the KNITS! The pattern envelope suggests: Brocade, Wool Blends, Velveteen, and Baby Cord for the jacket. I used this beautiful Coral Floral Jacquard Knit instead. The lining is a lightweight knit from my fabric stash.
True Bias Patterns recommends Medium Weight Knit Fabric with about 75% stretch to sew the Nikko, such as: Rib Knit, Sweater Knit, Bamboo Knit, or Stretch Velvet. I chose this Burgundy Cable Knit. You’ve already seen me use the green cable knit to make the Hive & Weaver Set, and the McCall’s 7531 Hack. Get ready to see a whole lot more because I’m madly in love with this fabric. I purchased it in 5 colors the first time I saw it. Then I went back and purchased even more recently. I have all the colors, except pink. Last year, I actually purchased the pink but I didn’t like what I made, so you never saw it. There’s a chance that I’ll go back for the pink again though. This cable knit is the most beautiful sweater knit fabric I’ve seen in a long time. My mind was doing somersaults in the store with ideas of what I would make while watching the attendant cut my fabric. Hahaha!
Notions Information
The jacket calls for six – 3/4″ buttons for Views A, B, and D; and four – 3/4″ buttons for View C. I used Self Covered Buttons because I like the polished finish. I’ve probably said it here before, but I believe self-covered buttons add an extra element of elegance to some garments.
For the belt, I chose a METAL BELT BUCKLE and EYELETS to create a beautiful adornment for the dress.
I used Clear Elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams of the jacket.
Alterations Information
I checked Pattern Review before sewing the garment to see what other Sewists were saying about their sewing experience. Several mentioned that the jacket turned out too snug, especially the sleeves. Therefore, I cut a Size 12 with no alterations. If I sew it again, I will merge to a Size 10 at the waist for a more fitted garment. I like the fit in the bust and sleeves, but the waist was looser than I wanted. You can’t really tell from the photos though, and the jacket still looks nice. When I did my first fit check before adding the peplum, it seemed okay. I really don’t like going back to make alterations on garments that I finish, but this one may be worth the extra work.
I shortened the hem on the Nikko Dress, closed the slits, and used the sleeve bias pieces to add more coverage. So, instead of pressing the bias to the inside and sewing it down to the armhole opening, I pressed the bias flat, away from the dress, and sewed down the seam allowance onto the dress with a Narrow Zig Zag Stitch. This way my bra straps are fully covered. One thing I can’t stand is to see my bra straps showing. I have these BRA STRAP CLIPS that I add to my bras for racerback tops or dresses, and they work very well. But I didn’t need to use them when I made this adjustment. I do have a racerback bra but the straps still seem to peek out on the shoulder with some garments.
This isn’t an alteration but I wanted to show you how I stabilized the shoulders of the jacket with clear elastic. I applied the elastic to the shoulder seam on the back pattern piece while attaching it to the front pieces.
Styling Options
I’m excited to show you how I mixed the three garments together, but I also plan to wear each of them with other pieces in my wardrobe. For all the looks, I accessorized with a pair of Burgundy patent leather pumps, and a cute little crochet wristlet purse that I made many years ago. So, let’s take a look at some of the styling options.
Styling Option 1
I styled the peplum jacket with a basic pencil skirt that I made with the leftover fabric from the dress. My preference is for skirts to fall below the knee, but I didn’t have enough fabric to reach that length this time. The skirt looks lovely with the jacket, but I will most likely make a longer one since I purchased more Burgundy Cable Knit on my recent visit to JoAnn’s. I accessorized with a rhinestone necklace, earrings, and ring; and crystal beaded bracelets.
Styling Option 2
My first thought was to pair the jacket with Nikko. But this dress looks amazing on its own. I made a matching belt because of how it elevated my last dress using McCall’s 7531 HERE. The chain-link necklace is a nice complement to the silver belt buckle.
Styling Option 3
For the next look, I styled the jacket with the Nikko Dress (no belt). This is a great option for when it’s cold outside. Then, if I get warm, the jacket comes off and I’m still looking great.
Styling Option 4
The final look is my favorite. I layered the Nikko Dress with a Crochet Cardigan that I purchased earlier in the year from my local Kohl’s Department Store, and added a pair of big hoop earrings. This look is the winner for me!
What do you think?
Which outfit do you like best? I would love to hear your feedback. Scroll to the very bottom of this page to leave a comment.
Thank you for stopping by today! 💕
Don't Forget your Sewing Project Checklist
Did you know that I created a Sewing Project Checklist to help you stay organized while sewing your garments? If you missed the video where I shared 3 Steps to Time Saving Sewing for Beginners, check it out to learn how you can streamline your sewing process. Tap the link below to get a Free PDF copy of the Checklist.
Links to Products I use:
(DISCLAIMER: This blog post may contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission on qualifying purchases. All opinions in this post are my own.).)
This Post Has 52 Comments
Absolutely beautiful, as are all your pieces! I’ve sewn for over 50 years and shy away from knits, but you have inspired me to use them more. The jacket and dress fabric are simply gorgeous and your work is perfection! Can’t wait to see what you make next!
Thank you so much, Pat! I love sewing with knits so much. It’s my favorite type of fabric.
I was just watching the current post. How do I connect with your other post and find the patterns and pattern numbers.
Hi Cynthia. You can scroll to the end of the post and you will see the red letters that say PREVIOUS POST or NEXT POST.
Hello, I am new. I would like to know where you find patterns? Looking at some, they are so expensive that I would like to be able to use more than once. From just the beginning, you are such a wonderful seamstress. Beautiful too.
Hi Johnelle. You can find the patterns at your local fabric store or online. I always link to the patterns in the blog posts. You can also find free PDF patterns online from several companies.
I Love the outfits. Especially the Peplum top. You look stunning in all of the outfits.
Thank you Sheila!
Love all the outfits you make and wear it with class. Thank you for all you do.
Thank you Mary. 💕
I loved all of the garments and you look wonderful in whatever I have seen you in. I did see something that I have not used it was the bra strap clip how is that attached to the garment?
It’s attached to the straps in the back.
Anita you look stunning and your sewing is so impressive
I love your outfit.
Absolutely beautiful! My favorite look is #4 the dress with the crocheted cardigan. The insides of your garments are very impressive. They are so neat and clean. After watching your YouTube videos and reading your blogs I’m regaining my passion for sewing. Thank you for sharing your talent and skill.
Awesome! It blesses my heart to hear you’re regaining your sewing passion again.
Nice!!! But everything you wear looks good 😊
Thank you.
Awesome is the word of the day for me. Love that you illustrated step-by-step instructions. I love all the styles, however 3 and 4 are my favorites ❤ Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you so much.
Beautiful clothing – you sew so beautifully!!! I like the cardigan over the sweater dress best but maybe that’s because I’m cold right now and it looks like the warmest option to me 🙂 I believe Julie at the Curated Curvy used that same floral jacquard to make a dress – it’s so pretty and great to see how versatile it is. I have that flat cable knit from Joann in three colors now and it is so nice to work with – haven’t seen the color you used at any of the stores around here yet, though – it’s perfect for the winter!
Thank you Mary Jean! I agree that it’s so easy to work with.
Stunning!! Anita the colors, accessories plus various looks are absolutely great; and you look gorgeous in each outfit. Your local Joann’s is on the ball. I don’t recall seeing either of the knits you used for your projects in my local store. Maybe I missed them so I’ll take a second look. You are such a meticulous sewist; the inside of your garments are always professionally finished. I admire your high standards. You have inspired me to sew more for myself and I think I’ll focus on doing so in 2024. It will be fun creating a new look for a number of monthly meetings I’m to attend next year. You and your Baby Lock machines make an awesome team. I’ll have to get at least one – maybe the Euphoria. My old Simplicity serger works (I use it to finish seams) and my sewing machine is a Brother Innov-is 1500D so they’re okay. I’ll just put them to greater use. Anita, thanks so much for walking in your calling. You are definitely an inspiration to the world of sewing.
Thank you so much, De! Yes, my local JoAnn’s brings in great fabrics. Yes, it will be so much fun sewing for your monthly meetings. I love wearing my new garments to my meetings in town too. You will absolutely LOVE the Euphoria. It’s a game changer.
Hi Anita! All pieces are absolutely beautiful and I love how u matched each piece. Thanks for being so encouraging.
Hi sis…you make it difficult to choose a favorite. I think they are all fabulous. I really enjoy how you style each piece…..this gives me great suggestions for my own wardrobe 😊.
Your sewing is meticulous and so encouraging.
Thanks as always for sharing everything with us in depth. I enjoy seeing a long blog post and pictures….keep it coming!!!!
Thank you so much, sis.
Hi Anita. Thanks for sending me inspiration. As for the different styles that you’re styling, I’m with you.
The dress paired with the long cardigan is a winner for me. It’s sleek, classy and very cozy looking.
Anita, you did it again. I am loving this ensemble. Simply Gorgeous!
You look fabulous.
Great job 😊❤️
You are looking so good! All of the pieces are awesome!
I like the skirt and jacket combo. And I like the dress by itself.
Wondering how the belt would look on top of the jacket.
Ida🥰
Thank you, Ida! Hmmm… I hadn’t considered placing the belt on top of the jacket.
SO Beautiful Anita! Your Smile is the icing on the Cake! God Bless you!
Thank you Dara!
Forgot to mention my fav….cardigan!
AMAZING! Your work always looks so professional! I enjoy seeing how you keep the seams finished. Do you use any pressing tools such as a ham?
Dear Sweet Anita,
Once again you have knocked it out of the park! Fabulous construction and stitching. Excellent hack to add bias to the sleeves and closing up the slit. . Not only does the bias add more coverage but, creates a more professional finish. And, you look fabulous! You must have changed your workout routine and it shows!
I too absolutely love these beautiful rayon blend cable knits found at Joann’s. I purchased all 5 colors as well including the pink last year in February and made Butterick 6857 view B with view A sleeves and used super blingy buttons for the collar and shoulder. It turned out elegant and beautifuly. I sewed using my older Babylock ellegante (1st addition 2006) and my Babylock evolution serger.
Since I stumbled upon your YouTube channel and blog in Jan 2022, you have inspired me to get my creative juices flowing again. I’ve been Sewing for over 50 yrs and took a sabbatical to join the quilting rage. I quickly discovered that you can’t wear a quilt and after showing at shows, they just take up closet space! Lol!
Since discovering you,, I have made at least 2 new garments per month and have joined the American Sewing Guilde (sub-group, “Fitting Divas”). These women are amazing and a Wizz at fitting!!
I can’t thank you enough for sharing your talent and enthusiasm for the art. Your faith in our Lord and zeal (no Babylock pun intended) for life has helped lift me up me during a dark time in life and I am forever grateful. ❤🙏
I hope that some day we meet.
Hugs, LittleStitchy
Oh my goodness, Tonya!!! Your message has blessed my heart deeply. I love hearing about your sewing journey and how you’ve been inspired to sew garments. I’ve never hear of the Fitting Divas. That sounds like a fun group. I’m so honored to know that I have played a part in helping you through the dark time. I hope we will meet one day too. That would really bless me heart. Until we meet in person, happy stitching, my dear Little Stitchy.
Hello Anita, such a professional job! I’m really in love with the dress and cardigan!
Beautiful as always. I love views 4&2 , i have a passion for long cardigans and i also love mock turtlenecks, but all views look really good on you
Anita,
Thank you so much for this blog. I know it was a lot of work and time putting the garments together, filming and documenting your sewing process. It was clear, precise and informative. I’m a person who has sewn for over 60 years and I love and appreciate your channel. God Bless You!
Thank you so much, Diana. Your message really touched me because you noticed how much work goes into producing the content here. I really do put my heart into it and enjoy sharing. Your appreciation blesses my heart. Thank you for sharing with me. God bless you too, sister.
Absolutely stunning! Just finished the Hive pullover in the pink knit and love it. Now you have me inspired again!!
I love every ensemble. The Nikko dress with the belt is fabulous. I think I am going to have to make it.
Beautiful! So much work and detail went into this ensemble. They all looks fantastic on you. My favorite is the last look with the cardigan too. Great colors for Christmas.
Hi Anita. All I can say is “WOW”. Everything you make is amazing and superbly done. I’m not giving up, one day mine outfits will look as good as yours. I purchased the Evolution because of you and I’m really enjoying it. Keep on sewing and sharing.
Hi Marilyn! Thank you so much. I’m glad to hear you say you will not give up on yourself. If you keep sewing and learning, your skills will improve. Mine did because I never gave up on myself and I continue to learn, grow, and improve my skills. Keep sewing, my sister.
You look like a million dollars in that outfit. It is absolutely stunning on you! You explain so well!
VERY BEAUTIFUL ENSEMBLE !! THANK YOU FOR SHARING !
Stunning! Absolutely beautiful work!
Okay Mz. Anita! You did that! Beautiful ensemble! By the way,
Because of you I purchased a baby lock serger (Vibrant) about 1 year ago. I still haven’t used it since testing and threading it, but I will. As soon a I press go on one of your beautiful creations💕
Awesome, Linda! I’m so glad to hear that you purchased the Vibrant. Now, I want you to come back and tell me that you have used it.